How I Cook is a Q&A series that peels back the curtains so you get a glimpse of the backgrounds and stories of some of the best chefs, pastry chefs, mixologists, and food specialists in Vancouver.
Can the heavenly smell of freshly baked bread make someone want to become a baker? Well…it can. And that comforting aroma was part of how Tommy Aird, Flourist’s Head Baker, fell in love with bread.
We spoke with Tommy to hear about his baking journey, the challenges and the rewards of the job, and his true feelings towards the Vancouver food scene.
How did you get into baking?
[Tommy]: I have loved baking ever since I was a child. My mom stopped baking bread at home by the time I was 8, but even more than twenty years later, my family never stopped remarking on the aroma that would fill the house. Something so comforting about the smell of molasses and proofing dough.
Or the idea of picking up a slab of brownies from Max’s to have after dinner with my grandparents. Knowing that my favourite part of the meal is served after the main course, when coffee and tea is offered. I always wanted to be part of that.
How did your career get you to where you are today?
[Tommy]: I went to culinary school at George Brown College in Toronto, and worked in a corporate events kitchen during that time. I spent three years working as a prep cook before getting a chance to work in their bakery during the slow season. It was only a few weeks after I got my first professional baking experience that I applied at a small Spanish-inspired restaurant to be part of their small bake team.
It was an incredibly talented team and I learnt a lot while I was there. I also had the chance of meeting other professional bakers during that time. One day we were visited by Marc-Andre Cyr and Blackbird Baking Co. Owner Simon Blackwell.
They told us of a grain conference they were putting on in Montreal that year, A Taste of Grain. The people I met there over the years, and the topics they covered, had some of the greatest influence on helping me identify that path I wanted to take.
Where do you get your culinary inspiration from?
[Tommy]: I get my inspiration from my colleagues, the farmers we work with, and everyone around the world working in this space taking part in grassroot movements to create stronger regional food economies.
Dawn Woodward of Evelyn’s Crackers and Nan Kohler of Grist and Toll are the two people I admire most. My work has more purpose because of the influence they have had on me.
What would we find you doing when you’re not in the kitchen?
[Tommy]: If I wasn’t at work I would hope to be spending some meaningful time with my partner, Kat, hopefully out in nature.
At the park with a frisbee is good, too.
What is your favourite part of your job?
[Tommy]: I love the collaborative nature of the work we do, and the quality of product we work with. Mixing fresh-milled flour made from organic Canadian grains with water never gets old. Seeing life appear never gets old.
Being part of a team that is constantly trying to grow never gets old. I’m very lucky, I find all parts of this process very rewarding.
What is your favourite pastry to make and why?
[Tommy]: I really love to make our Flourist Cookie Tart. It’s a Gateau Basques, that I first got the recipe from Brandon Olsen while I was working at Bar Isabel. Since then I have shared the recipe with Dawn Woodward and Nan Kohler, who made their own changes. Now my version is a hybrid, somewhere in between them all.
How do you balance your work time and personal time?
[Tommy]: I still struggle with finding work-life balance, but I feel like it’s something I am getting better at. There just aren’t enough hours in the day.
What was the biggest challenge you faced to get to where you are today?
[Tommy]: I think it is very challenging to find your path. It takes a long time to identify the area of hospitality that you feel most passionate about, then figuring out how to make a career out of it. All this while trying to find a team that suits your values.
Unfortunately, having to persevere through toxic environments and bullying is a much too common obstacle people in this industry face.
If you could give a piece of advice to your past self, what would you say?
[Tommy]: Focus on your own work, and your own development. Surround yourself with the most talented people you can, and value diversity and inclusivity as much as any other quality.
What is your under-the-radar food spot in Vancouver?
[Tommy]: Having only moved back to Vancouver last November, I haven’t had the chance to discover as much as I would have liked during the pandemic. It’s been nice having Hundy Burger so close to home when I don’t feel like cooking for myself, and their wine shop has some real gems.
What do you love and hate about Vancouver’s food scene?
[Tommy]: I love that people are willing to try new things and go out of their way to support the businesses they believe in.
Vancouver’s food scene needs a bigger platform, with the spotlight being shone on a more diverse group of folks leading this space.
This is only a bite into the successes of Head Baker Tommy Aird.
But the next time you visit Flourist you will know a little bit more about the effort served into the goodies in front of you.
Address: 3433 Commercial Street, Vancouver, BC V5N 4E8
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This piece has been prepared with the help of Kameela Nash.